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Wensley is the picturesque estate village of Bolton Hall which we walked by in page one. It used to be the most important settlement in the dale, giving it's name to it. However in 1563 it suffered a disaster when the Black Death decimated the villagers. Those who died were not buried in the churchyard but in a nearby field. Many of the survivors fled to nearby villages such as Leyburn and Askrigg. Leyburn went on to become the most important village in the dale, especially with the coming of the railway in the 1800's. The church was built in 1245 on the site of a Saxon church with the tower being rebuilt in 1719. It is said to be one of the finest and most interesting in Yorkshire and I certainly wouldn't disagree. There is certainly more to see than I have shown in the photos that follow. First the inside..................... |
The church was used as a wedding location for the t.v. series 'All Creatures Great and Small". The smooth stone seen in the centre of the aisle is called the Blue Stone which dates from the year 1460 . Below it lie the bodies of two brothers who were both rectors here. The first part of every marriage service starts on it, also bodies for burial are placed on it. Near to the ancient flag seen in this photograph is a 17th century Napoleonic flag of the Dales Volunteers (1816). There's a tale regarding the volunteers during this period which I find humorous. It concerns Penhill which is the hill we could see from Leyburn Shawl on the outward leg...... |
...here's me on the summit of Penhill during a previous walk. |
The structure I'm stood next to is I believe the remains of Penhill beacon (these beacons were located in prominent and usually high, places all over the country). They were lit in times when there was an incident of national interest and of emergency or celebration. They were a means of quick communication. In this case the threat of invasion by Napoleon. A watchman not unlike me, although not as good looking obviously, sat by the beacon. When, he saw the thing he dreaded, a light in the distance which he took to be the beacon alight on top of Roseberry Topping (Cleveland Hills). Quickly he set alight to the brushwood in his own beacon and soon the smoke and flames could be seen throughout Wensleydale. It was a signal for the volunteers to gather with arms which they hurredly did. With the beating of drums they set off via Masham where they met up with more volunteers before carrying on to Thirsk (approx 25 miles from Leyburn), ready to defend the country against Napoleon. On reaching Thirsk they were informed that it was a false alarm. The fire which had been seen had happened by accident and it was not the beacon on Roseberry Topping anyway. No doubt the volunteers all felt very relieved that they were not needed to fight, but no doubt strolled back home looking very macho and saying Napoleon could count himself very lucky as he'd escaped being beaten to a pulp by them. Meanwhile back in the church.......... |
Saxon stonework in the north wall aisle from 760 - 792 A.D. |
Stone coffin lid, date unknown. |
One of the wall paintings from 1330 A.D. This one supposedly representing 'Jacob and Esau' |
The font which you can see is dated 1662 it also has an inscription on it. |
Francis I'Anson was baptised in this church, no doubt in this font, on 11th November 1766. She is recognised as being the heroine of "Lass of Richmond Hill". This is a link to a midi file and further information. |
The pews have been in continual use since the 17th century. |
And here's another story I like......................... |
The Bolton pews which look rather like theatre boxes. It's said that the 3rd Duke of Bolton had them built to please his wife who as Lavinia Fenton (1708 - 1760) played Polly Peachum in the first production of 'The Beggar's Opera'. She must have had a traumatic childhood before becoming an actress - if you have read the link about her in the previous line, you'll know what I mean. Phew, well you've had a lot of dates and information to take in. Let's see if it's improved your knowledge and observational skills............... |
Study the above photograph carefully. Part of this gargoyle is original and part of it is a 20th century addition. Can you recognise which is which? Not difficult is it? But hey the pipe does it's job which is to take rainwater away from the building. And anyway what right have I to sneer at the quality of the workmanship? D.I.Y. to me means Destroy It Yourself not Do It Yourself. But...... I still think the builder who did it was called Butch Cassidy and his apprentice was the Sundance Kid --- Cowboys!! |
Before we move on with the final part of the walk, I'll give you some snippets of information about a few people who are buried in the graveyard. Firstly there's Frank Collinson who was a very successful local jockey who won the Derby in 1808 on a horse called 'Pan'. . Then there's Thomas Maude, who was born in a very famous street - Downing Street, London. But who was less successful as a writer and poet. Finally there's Peter Goldsmith who was a one time surgeon to Lord Nelson. I don't know when but it appears from my research that it was not on the H.M.S. Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. Wensley is a place you can drive through in the blink of an eye and walk through in little more, but what an impressive past and residents it has had. Certainly there has been a lot of boots walked here before ours. Made me wonder if I will leave anything behind of any interest to future generations. Perhaps in a few hundred years from now someone will look at a plaque on a wall in Wensley which says," Near this place in 2008, Terry Smith peeled and ate a satsuma". Doesn't really get your pulse racing does it? :-) |
After bombarding your brain with all this knowledge your brain may be in serious need of some liquid refreshment. Well you're in luck because there's a very good real ale pub which also sells food just a few hundred yards away - The Three Horseshoes, Wensley. Some of us though are stronger willed, so we carried on back to Leyburn. |
Outside the church we turned right along the minor road Low Lane (signed Middleham 3 miles) crossed a bridge over Wensley brook and turned left uphill by Glebe cottage. The lane turns right then left near some houses on the left. Here we went right through a gate into a field to follow a waysigned path over a number of stiles. After approx one and a quarter mile we turn left up an enclosed lane (Low Wood Lane). At the top we turn right at the road and it's only a short walk back into Leyburn. |
Easy walking over fields though there are several stiles. |
Back in the market place at Leyburn we look for a suitable refreshment spot. We were made welcome at the The Posthorn cafe, where Old Peculiar fruit loaf and Wensleydale cheese is a teatime speciality. |
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